What To Do Now
My Breaker Keeps Tripping: What It Means and What To Do
Published August 27, 2026 · Updated August 27, 2026
Short answer
A breaker that keeps tripping is working correctly and reporting a real condition. Reset it once. If it trips again, stop. Repeated resets against a live fault degrade the mechanism, which is how a breaker later fails to trip when it matters most.
Reset once. Not twice.
This is the single most important thing on this page. A circuit breaker is a sacrificial safety device with a finite number of fault interruptions in it. Each reset against a live fault stresses the mechanism. The failure mode you are working toward is a breaker that no longer trips at all, which removes the only protection that circuit has.
If it trips again immediately after one reset, leave it off and find out why.
The four causes, and how to tell them apart
Overload. The circuit is carrying more current than it is rated for. The signature is timing: it holds for a while, then trips, usually when one more thing switches on. Most common cause in this climate is a window unit or space heater added to a general lighting circuit. Fix is a dedicated circuit, not a bigger breaker.
Short circuit. A hot conductor touching neutral or ground. The signature is instant and repeatable: it trips the moment you reset, with nothing switched on. Often accompanied by a scorch mark or a smell. Stop and call.
Ground fault. Current leaking to ground, usually through moisture. Trips a GFCI rather than a standard breaker. In this climate this is the most common cause on exterior, bathroom, kitchen and garage circuits, and it rises during wet weather for obvious reasons.
Arc fault. An AFCI breaker trips on the electrical signature of arcing rather than on current. In older housing these trips are frequently correct: an AFCI can detect a deteriorating connection long before it is hot enough to notice. Do not replace an AFCI with a standard breaker to make the tripping stop. That is removing the smoke detector because it beeped.
What you can safely check yourself
- Unplug everything on the circuit, then reset. If it holds, add devices back one at a time. A failing appliance is the cause more often than the wiring.
- Check every GFCI in the house, including garage, exterior, bathrooms and any in the panel. One tripped GFCI can kill outlets in rooms nowhere near it.
- Note whether it trips under load or at rest. Under load points to overload. At rest points to a short or a ground fault.
- Look for the obvious: a damaged cord, a wet exterior outlet, a recent nail or screw into a wall.
Stop and call now if any of these are true
- A burning, hot-plastic or fishy smell anywhere near the panel or an outlet
- Any warmth or discoloration on a faceplate, switch or receptacle
- Buzzing, humming, crackling or ticking from the panel
- Visible scorching
- The breaker trips instantly and repeatably with nothing plugged in
- The main breaker is what is tripping
- Water anywhere near the panel
Those are not "book something next week" conditions. They are the ones we dispatch on at any hour.
What we do about it
The diagnostic is $95 to $145 and is credited against the repair. We trace what is actually on that breaker, which in older houses here is rarely what the directory claims, then test under load to find the fault rather than the symptom. Common findings are a back-stabbed receptacle that has gone resistive, a borrowed or shared neutral from an earlier addition, a corroded splice in a damp attic or under-house, or a genuinely overloaded circuit that needs its own run.
Bottom line
The breaker is not the problem; it is the messenger. Reset once, work through the checks above, and never fit a larger breaker to stop the tripping, because the wire behind it did not get any bigger. If it trips a second time or anything on the stop-and-call list is true, call 504-336-6748.
Related questions
Can I just put in a bigger breaker?
No. The conductor behind that breaker is sized for the original rating. A larger breaker lets the wire carry more current than it is rated for without tripping, which is precisely the condition breakers exist to prevent. This is a genuine and common cause of wall fires.
Why does it only trip in summer?
Air conditioning. A condenser's starting inrush is several times its running current, and on a circuit that is already near capacity that inrush is what tips it over. It is a real overload, and the fix is usually a dedicated circuit or a capacity review of the panel.
My AFCI trips but nothing seems wrong. Can I swap it?
Do not. An AFCI detects the signature of arcing, which means it can find a deteriorating connection well before there is anything to see or smell. In older housing those trips are frequently correct and worth tracing.